Island Peak Climbing 2023

  • Ramesh Rai
  • Last Updated on Jun 17, 2024

Island peak climbing 6,189 meter is a popular destination for climbers who are dreaming of high mountain expeditions and are interested to harvest mountain climbing experiences in life. In fact, Island Peak is a popular training peak for those who are attempting high Mountains expeditions because a lot of the skills required at Island Peak for crossing crevasses with ladders, using jumars on a fixed line, or climber must be prepared perfectly with every climbing equipment and technique.

As our experiences in the high Himalayas, we make a genuine and perfect itinerary including a trek from Gokyo Valley to Island peak climbing. Our main purpose is safety, security, and a successful mission in the Himalayas. The gradual ascent up the Gokyo Valley, Gokyo Ri 5,380m excursion, Chola Pass 5,420m, Khumbu Valley, Kalapatthar excursion 5,545 m, Everest basecamp hiking 5,360 m, and possibly Kongma La Pass 5,535m, allows forexcellent acclimatization and that enhanced easier on Island Peak Expedition.

Table of Contents

 The detailed Itinerary for Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak Climbing

Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu international airport greeting with flower garland and transfer to Hotel and evening trip briefing at your hotel

Day 02: Kathmandu to Phakding 2600m, 3 hours

Drive a couple of hours very early in the morning to Ramechap airport by car and take a short flight to Lukla (2800m). Your trekking supporting staff are waiting for you in Lukla, they will come to collect you at the airport counter and take you to the lodge for breakfast by the same time we make an introduction then start slowly trekking via Chaurikharkha, Kyangzoma, Ghat to Phakding village (2640m) for overnight.

Day 03: Phakding to Namche Bazaar 3440m' 5-6 hrs

We commence our trek to Namche Bazaar through the Dudh Koshi River bank. Today we will cross so many suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River. The zigzag trail leads us through Banker, Monjo to Jorsalle. Jorsalle is the check post of Sagarmatha national park and trekking permits. Thamserku, Kusumgaru, and Kwongde Mountain are visible all day long today. The Khumbila Peak is just standing over the Namche bazaar. We follow the uphill trail from the riverbed of this V-shaped valley where the river forks Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi are meeting each other. Now we begin steep ascending to Namche Bazar. We make a quick stoppage just over the shoulder of steep up after one and half hours of walking from there you will have the 1st excellent view of Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m.)Then it takes approximately 45 minutes to arrive at Namche Bazaar. Bellow the Namche Bazaar there is also a check post for checking your permits.

Day 04: Acclimatization day

Namche Bazaar
Namche Bazaar 3,540 meter

Acclimatization day is considered an ideal day for altitude acclimatization in this place, after breakfast just get higher around the museum. There is very nice viewpoint including the statue of Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and rounding mountain views such as Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Tawache, Nuptse, Amadablam, Thamserku, Kusumkangaru, Kwonge Peak, and Thame Peak. It would be the best morning ever in your travel time then follow the steep climb up to the world’s highest airstrip airport “Syangboche”. Turn right across the Everest View hotel to Khumjung village for a day excursion, visit the monastery which is still preserving a yeti’s head then get back down to Namche by aside the Khumjung school or if you want to go to Khunde village you can continue climbing and take a direct way to Namche bazaar from Khunde.

Day 05: Namche bazaar to Dole 4200m, 6 hours

It is an easy flat trail until Sanasa through birch, pines, and fir trees with fine views of mountains. From Sanasa it climbs for one and a half hours up to Mongla Danda then descends to Phortse Tanga. A well-known and typical ancient Sherpa village phortse is nicely visible along the way. There is a dense alpine forest of fir, rhododendron, birch, alpine bamboo, and pines between Phortse Tanga to Dole. The trail is scenic and mostly gradual uphill through the alpine forest.

Day 06: Dole to Machhermo 4700M, 6 hours

scale up the way slowly to the ridge from there you will see a giant big mountain wall standing in the forehead is Mt.Cho Oyu 8201m. The trail is not steady up however it is gently ascending through Luza. Today you will see a lot of yak pasture fields. In the former time, people from Khumjung, Kunde, and Phortse used to bring their animals into this valley thus still the land ownership is highly belonged to those people from the same village. Finally, we will arrive by clearing one hill lap to another into a Fish shaped valley in Machhermo village.

Day 07: Machhermo to Gokyo Lake 4750m, 3 hours

Gokyo Lake
Gokyo Lake 4750 meter

We have a short walk today. We will arrive at Gokyo by lunchtime. After lunch, we climb up the glacier edge for exploration. On the way, a little settlement called Fanga village appears there was a big avalanche of devastation in 1996. The trail crosses the rocky narrow hill near the glacier and turns around the valley towards the lake. There are many beautiful lakes in Gokyo Valley, behind the lakes there is a big glacier laying, which is spreading from the bottom of Mt.Cho –oyu. After walking slowly around the rocky corner you will reach the third lake where you are staying for the overnight at 4750m.

Day 08: Gokyo Lake to Thangnak 4700m, 7 hours

: Explore Gokyo Ri early in the morning which may take three hours up and down. Gokyo Ri is one of the best viewpoints that offers a panoramic view of Mt. Everest 8,848m, Lhotse 8,516m, Lhotse Shar 8,383m, Makalu 8,481m and Cho Oyu 8,201m and several other mountains such as Mt. Pumori (7161m), Ngozumba, Gyazungkhang, Tawatse, Cholatse, Mt. Changste (7550m), Mt. Lingterin (6679m), Mt. Amadablam (6856m), Bharuntse, Thamserku (6723m), Kantega( 6685m), etc. And a huge Ngozumba glacier and a fine view of local Lakes. Descend to the lodge for breakfast then start the trek to Thangnak by crossing a huge Ngozumba glacier. Overnight at Thangnak 4700m.

Day 09: Thangnak - Chola pass 5,420m - Dzongla 4800m, 8 hours

Chola- Pass
Chola Pass 5420 meter

The trail follows a small river stream into the deep mountain valley. It crosses several hillocks, glacier moraine to the Chola Phedi. Ascending over the rocky part takes almost a couple of hours. You frequently meet other trekkers who are coming from EBC trekking on this cliff. There was a big problem for ascending and descending during a heavy snowing time but it is quite easier now by fixing fixed steel strings around scary and riskier places. You must carry a picnic packet for the day while it is an important day over 5,420m, Chola pass. After the pass trail crosses a big part of the ice field and gradual descent to the Small settlement of Zhongla.

Day 10: Dzongla to Gorakshep 5,170m, 7 hours

Start your trekking just after your breakfast. The views are very honorable such as Mt. Chola tse, Tawatse Peak, Lobuche Peak, Nuptse Peak Amadablam Peak, Chola Lake, and a wide alpine pasture field. The Khumbu legendary trail meets at the memorial site that comes across Pheriche village downtown. Pheriche is a famous Highlander village with a Rescue center and comfortable lodges. Follow the trail that gradually climbs toward EBC. Within some hours of ascending you will arrive in Lobuche (4900m) and make your lunch here. It takes almost 3 hours of a demanding walk through Gyazungkhang glacier, the rocky gregarious moraine trail, and the giant longe bed of Khumbu glacier to the right side. Mt. Pumori, Nuptse, Gyzungkhang, Ngozumba are towering Mountains. And a wide and big glacier and Khumbu Icefall will be enormously visible over the tour. Overnight at Crowed and the ultimate place Gorakshep.

Day 11: Gorakshep- Kalapatthar- EBC- Lobuche 4900m, 7 hours

Start climbing up to the Kalapatthar very early in the morning with a flashlight for nice sunrise views. It takes approximately one and a half-hour’ time. You can see enormous spellbound views from Kalapathhar, Mt. Everest is very nicely visible from Kalapatthar. Mt. Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse, a wide range of Everest basecamp, Khumbu icefall, long range of giant Khumbu glacier, Mt. Makalu, Bharuntse, Amadablam, Tauche, Thamserku and complete Himalayan glacier covering landscape are visible. Pumori base camp lies just below Kalapatthar with gleaming Glacier Lake. Descend to the hotel for breakfast and prepare your baggage for the porter. Porters will descend to Lobuche earlier while you will make a side trip to Everest basecamp in the noon with some picnic package. Get back to Gorakshep for some drink or soup then descend directly to Lobuche for overnight.

Day 12:Lobuche - Kongmala Pass 5,535m - Chhukung 4730m, 8 hours

Kongma La

Today is another important day for crossing Kong Ma la 5,535m, pass. The trail is quite tough till the pass then it is easy descending until you reach Chhukung.

Day 13: Chhukung Rest day or Preparation for climbing peak, check and manage climbing gears.

Day 14: Chhukung to Island peak basecamp 5,300m, 4 hours

Your Island Peak expedition team starts with a completed outfitter preparation such as tents, food, a cook, a helper, and a climbing guide. You will arrive by lunch at base camp, make some rest then the whole noon time is for climbing training by your climbing guide.

Day 15: Island Peak 6,189m Summit and back B.C. or Chhukung

Island Peak Summit

Normally climbing starts at 2:00 Am from base camp or according to your conditions. It takes approximately 12 hours of walking all the way up to Island Peak summit and down to base camp. If you have time then better to descend to Chhukung overnight will be more comfortable rather sleeping in a tent in base camp.

Day 16: Contingency time

A spare contingency day should our summit attempt be in any way delayed due to bad weather or the need to rest for another day. If not needed it will be added on as an extra free day in Kathmandu

Day 17:Chhukung to Tyanboche Monastery, 6 hours

Easy walk down via passing the legendary villages Dingboche, Pangboche to the highly respected holy Tyangboche Monastery for overnight

Day 18:Tyangboche to Monjo, 6 hours

Return down to Namche bazaar and descend to Monjo for overnight at a comfortable hotel.

Day 19:Monjo to Lukla, 5 hours

Easy descending to Lukla and farewell dinner together with your trekking crews. Give thanks for the hard work of this mission come true with some presents or TIPS.

Day 20:Lukla - KTM and free noon time

Take a morning flight to Manthali and drive back to KTM, free at noon time. And farewell dinner at your trip organizer.

Ramesh Rai

Ramesh Rai

Climbing expertise 

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